Yamaha 100cc: Bamako, Mali Part 2. by risa
by Michael Albert.
Despite how strange it looked to passerbys, I circled L’Institute Nationale de Recherche en Santé Public a dozen times while three Malians give me the thumbs up and said ‘lentement, lentement’ (slowly, slowly) each time I passed them at the front gates. Finally, I made it onto the road on my new Yamaha 100cc, fresh out of factory bubble tape in the standard shiny blue. I looked just like every other dude on a bike in Bamako (aside of course from the fact that I don’t look anything like any other dude in Bamako, due to the obvious difference that comparatively my skin is as white as snow and my hair is such a novelty that I have experienced passing children stopping to touch and play with it).
There I was, on the road. I did not think about what my good friend Scoob had told me about the high fatality rate of Peace Corps volunteers dying due to bike accidents. I did not think about the wise words of my buddy Max, who reminded me that there is a hospital in California designated specifically to motorcycle accidents – “fecal incontinence, total paralysis, etc” were his eloquent words. Instead I focussed on the wind in my hair, the breeze on my face. There was a pleasant buzz in my head. I could feel the subtle hum of the motor from underneath. Blissful.
Mmmm, the wind in my hair, breeze on my face…COUGH, COUGH… smoke in my face, dust in my eyes… contact, losing my contact, dirt, smoke, OX! Herd of OX! In the road. All over the road.
Pass them on the right… ahh, better…
Wind in my hair, breeze on my face… COUGH… smoke, dust… contact… fumes… GOAT! GOAT! GOATS IN THE ROAD! GOATS IN THE ROAD!
THERE ARE GOATS IN THE ROAD!
BRAKE, Michael, brake… which one is the brake, no that is the clutch. Right foot, brake. Avoid the goats, vear left around goats… ok, slow turn right, good. Ok good… wind in my hair, breeze on my face… BUMP, train tracks… hole in the road, dirt, wagon, motorcycle screaming by, fecalincontenancetotal paralysis, dear god, avoid the cart, rain… the rain is pouring… I’m close, I’ll be home soon…
Ok… intersection. stop… Ok, turn left… no… too many cars, not today, turn right. Stall. Clutch, downshift, start the engine. Clutch, upshift, release slowly… STALL! Again… clutch, downshift, start engine, clutch, upshift, release slowly, gas… right hand… I’m off – DEAR GOD GIANT GREEN TAXI!!! Ok… going good now… but in the wrong direction… ok… U-turn here… no… pull over… STALL.
« Quesque-tu fais la?», What are you doing? Asks the man sitting at the chicken stand where I have stalled.
« Je retourne chez moi» I’m returning home, I answer. He approaches. Home? Where? What are you doing? He asks, and a crowd begins to surround me, despite the fact that the rain is coming down in buckets. « ’est mon premiere fois sur une moto» I say, confessing that I have never driven a motorcycle before. They burst into laughter and wish me luck. Off I go again. Clutch, downshift, start the engine, clutch, upshift, release slowly, accelerate with right hand… I’m off again, the rain having soaked me now… an opening I make a nice easy U-turn, make a right on to the dirt road that takes me to my home. Dirt, mud, puddles, children staring, wet men under stands smiling…
I arrive home and the little child who occupies the tiny shed next to my house runs to tell his father… « Moto, moto, moto.» Excited, the two cute little kids glance in admiration at my dirt bike… my little death mobile. Alive, drenched and feeling invigorated I walk out in the pouring rain and buy myself some vegetables, fruit (no meat this time), go home and cook supper.
That was yesterday. I bought my registration, insurance, and yes, my helmet today. Don’t worry Mom, I’ll be safe
Live and love life,
Michael
Speaking of Moto methodologies, check out this this article about Kidd of Speed, Pedestrian methodologies, and movement in power geometries.
And stay tuned for Bamako part 3 to find out how intrepid Michael settles in amoung the ex-pats, tourists, and foreigners and to hear about the hybrid way he begins to find himself at home.
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